优雅复古 维多利亚女王妆容 Queen Victoria Makeup Tutorial(维多利亚女王穿衣服有多复杂)

Hi, Im Fashion Historian Amber Butchart.

嗨，我是时尚历史学家 Amber Butchart。

Im here at Osborne on the Isle of Wight to follow in the royal foosteps of Queen Victoria.

现在我来到了怀特岛的奥斯本，跟随维多利亚女王的皇家队伍。

Osborne was the holiday home for the Queen and her family through much of the 19th century and today its cared for by English Heritage.

在 19 世纪的大部分时间里，奥斯本是女王及其家人的度假屋，如今它被英格兰遗产托管着。

Victoria retreated here away from the prying eyes of the public but today we have a special invitation.

维多利亚在这里远离公众的窥探，但今天我们有一个特别的邀请。

So join us as we recreate another history-inspired look and find out more about the Queen, her home and the country she ruled over.

今天我们将一起重现历史上女王的外观，了解更多关于女王，她的家和她治下国家的信息。

Hello!

你好！

Hey Amber, hows it going?

嘿，Amber，最近怎么样？

Good, thanks. So today Queen Victoria, she reigned from 1837 to 1901, and after Queen Elizabeth II, shes actually our longest reigning monarch to date.

很好，谢谢。所以今天我们来说说维多利亚女王，她的执政年限从 1837 年开始到 1901 年结束，在女王伊丽莎白二世之后，她实际上是我们迄今为止在位最长的执政君主。

Were here in the glorious surroundings of Osbourne her holiday home, so Rebecca what look are you going to do for us today?

我们在她的度假地——被美景环绕的奥斯本，丽贝卡，你今天要为我们做什么？

On our beautiful model, Hollie, Im going to be creating a Queen Victoria inspired makeup look.

在我们漂亮的模特 Hollie 身上，我将塑造一个维多利亚女王风格的妆容。

You can see from Victorias various portraits that her look was very much a fair but not excessively white, skin a little flush of color in the cheeks and very neat well groomed hair.

你可以从维多利亚的各种肖像中看到她的肤色偏白但不过分白，脸颊皮肤有点泛红，头发齐整。

So its kind of the, its the ultimate no makeup-makeup tutorial that were going to do today.

所以它是一种似扮未扮的妆容。

Lovely!

太棒了！

Theres a quote going round that Victoria herself thought that makeup was vulgar Now while we dont know the while we dont know the source of that quote what we do know is in the Victorian era makeup became much less obvious, It became much more subtle.

有一个引述说维多利亚自己认为化妆是庸俗的。现在虽然我们不知道该引用的来源，但我们知道的是在维多利亚时代，化妆变得不那么明显了，它变得更加含蓄。

And so where would she have worn a look like the one youre going to create?

那么你要创造的那个妆容是她在什么场合会装扮的呢？

Well, lets imagine that Holly is going to be getting ready to have her portrait painted so that she needs to look very elegant.

好吧，让我们想象一下 Holly 正准备让画师给她画肖像画，她需要看起来非常优雅。

So lets start with the first part of our makeup tutorial and well talk skin care and skin prep.

让我们从化妆教程的第一部分开始吧，我们谈谈皮肤护理和打底。

Here at Osborne if you go upstairs to Queen Victorias dressing room, you can see her dressing table and her wash stand and Im so curious I really want to know whats in all those little pots.

在奥斯本如果你上楼上女王的更衣室，你可以看到她的敷料桌子和洗手台，我很好奇那些壶子里面曾经装过什么。

Its tricky to know what Victoria wore on her face, but we do have some really nice quotes from Frieda Arnold who was one of her dresses at the time who said the Queen liked to go to her dressing table around 8 oclock in the evening when the maids will have set out some elderflower water for her to wash her face and hands and also some chamomile tea for her to bathe her eyes.

虽然查探女王用过的护肤化妆物料很棘手，幸好我们从她的梳妆侍女 Frieda Arnold 得到一些很有参考价值的记录，她写道：女王喜欢晚上 8 点左右到敷料桌，那时候侍女已经准备好接骨木花水给女王洗面和洗手，还有就是些洋甘菊茶供她敷眼。

So lets start with some chamomile tea to bathe the eyes if you keep your eyes closed for me Hollie.

那么我们就先用些洋甘菊茶敷眼，Hollie 要把眼睛紧闭哦。

Is that soothing? How does it feel?

舒服吗？感觉如何？

Yeah, its lovely.

是的，很舒服。

Chamomile is really known for being soothing and calming and Im sure Victoria would have appreciated this after a long day of state affairs, horse riding and walking around Osborne.

洋甘菊真的以舒缓和镇静而闻名，我相信维多利亚经历一整天的国家事务、骑马和在奥斯本散步之后，她会非常须要这个敷眼程序缓神。

And now lets wash that face with some elderflower water After Victorias had her skin prepped and cleansed well then move on to the next step which is kind of a foundation base.

现在让我们用一些接骨木花水洗脸。在维多利亚的皮肤准备和清洁之后，然后我们将继续下一步作为打底步骤。

Now we just stepped outside to do Hollies base because we cant use loose powder in a historical building.

我们刚刚移动到户外给 Hollie 打粉底，因为在历史建筑内严禁使用任何粉尘。

Ive got a brush with almost nothing on it just for some touch-ups.

我有一支完全干净的毛刷稍为作最后的修饰。

And weve used zinc oxide, now one of the strongest differences for Victorian makeup is the move away from a really heavy white painted base and the move away from using white lead as that base.

我用的是氧化锌，与上一代相比，维多利亚时代化妆的最大的进步是不再以油性白色颜料厚涂皮肤。

Zinc oxide came in and replaced white lead and it was great because its sheer, it still gives you that slightly white finish Most importantly it wont kill you – Yay! – when you wear it which is brilliant.

更重要的是停止使用以铅为原料的白色颜料，这时起氧化锌取代了铅白，它的优点是比较通透，又能够满足对淡白肌肤的渴求。最重要的是它不会害死你。- 耶！- 当你抹上这个效果很棒。

We still use zinc oxide in makeup today.

我们当今的皮护产品依然有在使用氧化锌。

Youll see it most often in sunscreen products and youll probably see that if youve ever put a high-factor sunscreen on your skin you can see that kind of white cast.

你可以在防晒霜的成分栏找到它，特别是涂上防晒系数非常高的防晒霜后 你可以看到那非常明显的白涂层。

Oh that sort of chalky nature?

哦，那种白垩质地？

Yeah.

是啊。

Now if you could get your hands on zinc oxide brilliant if you cant get your hands on zinc oxide sometimes middle-class – working-class women might use things like starch or maybe chalk dust to make their faces look lighter or they might resort to some recipes that theyve seen in books or magazines.

那时候如果你找得到氧化锌的话就最理想，当时后一些中产或劳动阶层的女性买不到氧化锌，为了漂白脸孔就会寻求一些替代品如淀粉或白垩粉末 （石灰，即粉笔原料）甚至是当时书刊或杂志上看到的偏方。

We see a real rise in magazines in this period.

我们看到这一时期杂志的真正崛起。

The Industrial Revolution sees a huge expansion of the middle-class and along with this a lot of journal sort of etiquette journals beauty fashion manuals to help people negotiate their new social position.

工业革命令许多人升格为中产，关于礼仪、美容和时装的刊物让他们得以融入他们新的社会阶层。

And one of note in particular that comes from the period were looking at – the 1850s – is the English Womans Domestic magazine.

其中一个那时候很值得关注的是 1850 年代发行的 《英格兰女士的家政杂志》。

This was published by Samuel Beaton who was the husband of Isabella Beaton who was famous for her book of household management.

这杂志由 Samuel Beeton 发行，他是 Isabella Beeton 的丈夫。

Of course, Mrs Beeton!

可不，Beeton 夫人！

Exactly! So this would cover it was aimed squarely at a middle class audience that would cover all of these areas and even some political commentary as well, and fiction, all kinds of things for middle-class Victorian women to read.

正是！所以这书的受众完全就是中产读者除了囊括之前提过的内容外，还会包含些政治社评、虚构小说等，都是些中产维多利亚时代女士热心的题材。

But not everyone was so prosperous at this time, were they? -No, definitely not.

但那时候不是每一个人都那么富裕吧？-对，肯定不是的。

The Industrial Revolution also caused huge amounts of poverty and squalor in some urban areas and also tuberculosis.

伴随工业革命而来的还有一些地区充斥的大量贫民和恶劣卫生问题，那时结核病肆虐。

This claimed sixty to seventy thousand lives in each decade of Victorias reign.

维多利亚在位时每 10 年就有 6 至 7 万人因此死亡。

It was a serious epidemic in Queen Victorias reign, but also tuberculosis formed kind of a beauty movement People thought that the symptoms of tuberculosis were beautiful.

这是维多利亚女王统治时期的严重流行病，但结核病形成了一种美容潮流。人们认为结核病的症状很美。

The hectic flush cheek, a pale skin and also brightened eyes and because tuberculosis was thought to be beautiful, women may have started to emulate some of the symptoms.

发热的红腮、苍白的皮肤还有瞳孔扩张，这种歪曲的审美让那时许多女性模仿这些症状。

So they wore more white powder to give them that pale look, they might have added more rouge for the for the flush of a fever and they also might have used belladonna which is a chemical that makes your pupils dilate.

所以她们会打上更厚的白色粉底令自己看来更苍白，而后打上更多胭脂去模仿那发烧时的腮红，她们甚至会用颠茄——一种有毒的化学物令瞳孔扩张。

Dilated pupils can be a sign of sickness and it also is believed to make women look more attractive.

膨胀的瞳孔可能是疾病的征兆，也被认为可以使女性看起来更加有吸引力的地方。

Im not going to use belladonna, youll be grateful to hear Im going to use just some good old eyedrops, so if you would pop your head back for me lets pop some eyedrops in here and see if we can give you that consumptive chic.

我不打算用颠茄，所以你可以放心，我准备用普通的滋润眼药水而已，所以把你的头稍稍往后挨，好让我给妳滴些眼药水看看能否营造那像发病的美感。

There we go.

差不多好了。

So shiny.

如此闪亮。

One might almost say glassy.

有人可能会说玻璃般剔透。

Women didnt necessarily wear a lot of product around their eyes at this time.

此时女性并不一定会在眼睛周围上妆过多。

Kohl was considered vulgar and also not worth the deception, so something simple and more natural was often used maybe it might be castor oil on the eyebrows and the eyelashes to give them a gloss and a shine and to help them grow longer and stronger.

中东、北非和南亚流行的眼圈（kohl）被认为是庸俗的，而且也不值得大费周章，所以倾向一些更简单和更自然的眼睛妆容，例如在眼眉和睫毛涂上蓖麻油以此营造出光鲜和饱满的视觉效果。

Were now onto the cheeks stage of our makeup and Im going to be using our good old friend rouge.

轮到颧骨腮红了，我们会用到老朋友胭脂。

Now rouge has been around in many forms for hundreds of years and in the Victorian era there were quite a few different forms of rouge even though it was very subtly used.

而维多利亚时代的胭脂也有好几种不同种类，虽然这时胭脂依然是打得比较隐晦。

The version that Im going to use is a liquid rouge and this was often made using either vegetable color maybe beetroot or possibly carmine which is derived from cochineal beetles mixed with alcohol and water and I read one source that suggests that you apply the liquid rouge with a hankerchief. Ive never never done this before so lets see how hankerchief application works Its not bad!

而这次用到的是液态胭脂，而原料可以是蔬菜色素，如红彩头又或者是将昆虫尸体如红色甲虫研磨后混合酒精和水得出所谓的“胭脂红”，而我看过一个资料建议以手帕上液态胭脂，我以前没有这样试过，所以这次就看看手拍上胭脂的效果。不算太差！

Now while we dont know whether Victoria herself wore rouge, she does make a couple of mentions to it in her diary, specifically other people wearing it and mentioning that they look better for wearing a little bit of rouge, So maybe she wasnt too against makeup.

虽然我们无法得知维多利亚本人有没有用过胭脂，但她有好几次在日记中特地提及过她看到其他人脸上上了点胭脂，而她觉得这样令她们面色更好看，所以可以合理推测她不太反对化妆。

Lips are really natural in this era. Some people said that rosy lips were the reward of temperate living and exercise outdoors.

口红在这个时代也是涂得非常朴素，有些人说粉红嘴唇是给端庄地生活和出外活动的人的奖励。

Were gonna use a rose-tinted lip salve.

我们会用玫瑰粉红的唇膏。

There were loads of recipes for how to create your own lip salves but also this was the era where makeup started to be mass-produced and the first commercially available lipstick in a tube was available towards the end of the 19th century.

我们可以找到许多自制唇膏的配方，但化妆品自这个时代起开始在工厂被大规模生产，而第一个在零售市场发售的管型唇膏就是 19 世界末出现的。

Mass-production was really impacting fashion at this time as well.

大规模生产在这个时候也真正影响了时尚。

In the 1850s the cage crinoline is developed using rings of steel and this is called the first industrial fashion because of the way it was manufactured.

1850 年代以数个钢环制成的鸟笼状“裙衬”（crinoline）正因为大规模生产方式令鸟笼裙衬被称为第一个被工业化的时装。

And it said that by the early 1860s apparently one seventh of the weekly output of steel in Sheffield actually went towards making these crinolines.

有报导说 1860 年初每周有 7 分之 1 的谢菲尔德钢材都被拿来生产鸟笼裙衬。

So it was a very you know huge fashion at this time.

所以可以想像鸟笼裙衬在当时是非常受欢迎。

Queen Victoria apparently even succumbed to the cage crinoline just once when it was really, really hot too hot to wear her layers and layers and layers of petticoats that she otherwise would have warden to create the same silhouettes.

维多利亚女王甚至仅仅一次破戒穿上了鸟笼裙衬，因为那天天气真的太热了，让人无法忍受穿着由许多层衬裙（petticoat）重叠所营造的淑女下半身轮廓。

Now weve got our Queen Victoria inspired face, lets move on to something thats very iconic for, Queen Victoria and that was her hair and her hairstyles.

现在既然已经完成了维多利亚女王面部的妆容，那么下一步就是维多利亚女王一个很标志性的外型，那就是她的发型。

Now Victoria would have her hair done by a maid in the morning just into a simple twist and then her iconic hairstyle was created by her hairdressers.

维多利亚在早上刚起床后会由侍女简单地将头发卷起扎好，然后才由她专用的发型师为她梳理她经典的发型。

She had up to two hairdressers on retainer any one time that would do her hair daily and her very neat, plaited, low bun style reflects that Victorian sensibility of modesty and simplicity, but also that having loose hair meant that you might also have loose morals.

她的仆从中有最多两个发型师每日随时候命。而她那个整齐地编织的低发髻发型反应了维多利亚时代人民对朴素和简约的感性追求，同时松散不经梳理的头发则寓意对道德礼节不够拘谨。

Ah yes, Victoria and Albert styled themselves as a very respectable couple so no loose hair to be seen on Victoria.

对呢，维多利亚女王和艾伯特亲王努力将自己塑造成非常可敬的皇室夫妻。

But it is quite relevant for our beachside setting here at Osborne because the seaside was one of the places where you might actually come across loose hair and some of ideas of loose morality that go alongside that.

所以维多利亚是绝不会在公开场合以松散头发示人，但在这位处海边的奥斯本都是个很重要的课题，因为在海滨人们会很自然地会以松散头发过活，同时这里亦是一个放纵自我的地方。

The seaside starts to impact your wardrobe as well.

海滨生活同时也会影响你的着装。

You would pack specific seaside dresses for your trip and these would be a bit more outlandish than fashions that you might wear in the city centre so maybe striped or maybe with a sort of a nautical touch as you can see here.

你会专程为了在海滨生活而带上特定的服装，这些都会比在城中心里穿着的衣裳更光怪陆离，可能是条纹或海员的衣着风格，就像如你所见这样。

Now while you work on the hair, I am going to go and find out much more about Victorias reign, so Ill see you guys later.

那么你们继续整理头发吧，我现在去探索一下关于维多利亚的统治，稍后再见。

See you later~ Michael, this is quite the holiday home what can you tell me about Osborne?

回头见～迈克尔，这里真的很有度假风情，你可以告诉我关于奥斯本的事迹吗？

Well, Osborne was built by Victoria and Albert as a private family home they had recently got married so like any newly married couple I guess they wanted a place of their own not a state residence this was a private family home somewhere where they could escape to from the pressures of court life in London and Windsor.

奥斯本是维多利亚和奥伯特刚结婚后修建的私人起居房子，所以这像许多新婚夫妇的梦想般，他们想有个真正属于自己的天地，而不是国营住所，一个从伦敦和温莎宫廷生活的压力中释放自我的私人空间。

Victoria is known as a ruler who had a very strict moral code. How did her upbringing impact that?

维多利亚是以非常严格的道德标准而闻名的君主。她的成长经历是如何影响她的？

She had quite a strict upbringing. She was brought up by her mother, her father had died when she was just you know not even a year old and her mother was really reacting I suppose against the loose morals of the previous Georgian period and Queen Victoria remembered her childhood as a rather melancholy affair really, a rather lonely affair.

她的成长受到非常严厉的教养，她由亲生母亲培育长大，而她的父亲在她未足一岁就逝世了，她的母亲对前朝乔治王时代的松散道德观非常反感，维多利亚女王记忆中的童年是非常忧郁和孤独的。

And so that must have also influenced the way that she felt about family and children as well if she was brought up on her own?

所以她的成长一定影响了她对待自己家族和孩子的方式吧。

Yes, I mean I think because she didnt really have much of a normal family life herself she in turn reacted against this and when she married Albert and they had children of their own they wanted to create this sort of idyllic happy family life something that neither Victoria or Albert had really had themselves as children.

是的，我觉得因为她从来没有在一个普通家庭中生活过，她自己反过来反抗她的儿童时代，当她和艾伯特结婚、生了孩子后，他们想创造一个田园般的愉快家庭，这是维多利亚或艾伯特儿时所无法经历的。

Victorias reign is known as a huge period of change especially with the Industrial Revolution. What are the global ramifications of this?

众所周知维多利亚统治的时期是个大变革时期，特别是工业革命。这个对全球有什么影响呢？

I think the technological changes were huge. There was an outlook, it was possible to look outward much more and communicate globally and of course this led to the building up of a huge empire during Victorias reign and its appropriate that were standing in this room talking at the moment, this fabulous Indian interior because India became a part of a very important central part of Victorias Empire so much so that she became Empress of India in the 1870s.

我认为工业革命为技术带来了巨大变革，那时诞生了新的前景，那时大家可以往国外看到更多事物和对外沟通，亦因此在维多利亚在位时大英帝国的版图亦扩张了，这亦让我们可以站在这个印度风格装横的房间里闲谈，因为印度成为了维多利亚的帝国，一个很重要的核心，因此她在 1870 年加冕为印度皇后。

What kind clothes with Victoria have worn here at Osborne?

维多利亚在奥斯本时是什么样的穿着呢？

The kind of clothes she wore were comparatively relaxed, Osborne being a family home there wasnt this formality of dress here that there would have been elsewhere, no crowns and tiaras for instance. So floaty summer dresses, muslins, light silks that sort of thing.

她在这里穿的都颇为轻便，奥斯本作为一个私人起居所，所以没有如其他地方要求的体制化衣着要求，例如在这里她不用戴皇冠和头饰，所以都是些宽松的夏季裙子、薄纱和轻丝绸之类。

And you have some items of clothing here that Victoria actually wore. What can you tell me about them?

你这里有一些维多利亚穿着过的衣物吧，你可以告诉我关于那些衣物的情况吗？

Weve got a night dress that we know that she wore. Its monogrammed with her V R with a crown on the top.

我们保有一件她着过的睡衣，织有她的首写字母“V 和 R”，以及上面有一个皇冠图案。

Wow! Its my dream to have monogrammed pyjamas.

哇！我一直梦想有个印有自己名字的睡衣！

You must! You must!

你必须拥有！

Weve also got a couple of pairs of stockings a white pair and a black pair both of which have got again the Queens initials on the top.

我们还有几双白色和黑色的长袜，它们上面同样印有女王的名字首字母。

The black pair were probably morning stockings I think I mean famously Queen Victoria spent most of her later years as a widow.

黑色那双我认为是维多利亚女王守寡时最常穿。

Thanks so much Michael Im gonna go and see how our Victoria is coming together Pleasure.

非常感谢，迈克尔，我要回去看看我们这边的维多利亚是否已经准备好了。我的荣幸。

Oh wow Hollie, you look amazing! Rebecca well done this is fantastic.

哦，Hollie，你看起来太棒了！丽贝卡干得好，这太棒了！

What a transformation. I absolutely love this look, its so ideal, the lace is great.

这转变太惊人了，我太爱这造型了，太完美了，这蕾丝真美。

Victoria loved lace, she even collected antique lace and she had some specially commissioned Honiton lace from Devon for her wedding dress which she rewore again and again throughout her life at various events.

维多利亚本人就是喜爱蕾丝，她收集了许多古式蕾丝并订造了德文生产的汉宁顿蕾丝用在她的婚纱上，她在好几次其他场合中穿着这裙子。

She was also known to wear lilac as well so its just you look like a young Victoria, its perfect.

她也喜欢紫丁香，所以你看来十足是个年轻时的维多利亚，太完美了。

Its such a stunning dress, isnt it?

它是如此令人惊艳的礼服，不是吗？

It really is! And the hair really is incredible, these flowers are amazing, where are they from?

可不是！还有这发型也是美极了，这些花很可爱，它们是来自哪里？

The flowers Im completely in love with theyre actually from the Osborne estate so weve had them fresh from the garden because we know that Victoria really loved to wear flowers in her hair and she loved to wear fresh flowers, especially while she was here at Osborne Oh, how gorgeous!

它们其实是产自奥斯本庄园，所以我们才可以从花园里新鲜采择，因为我们知道维多利亚喜欢在头发上戴鲜花，特别是在奥斯本生活时。哦，多么的华丽啊！

Theres some significant flowers from Osborne too The Osborne myrtle which Princess Victoria, which was Queen Victorias daughter had in her wedding bouquet and then its gone on to become a bit royal tradition, so Princess Diana had it in her wedding bouquet and so did Catherine Middleton and then most lately Meghan Markle, too.

这些奥斯本花朵也有它们的故事。这些“奥斯本桃金娘”曾用在维多利亚公主，即维多利亚女王的女儿的结婚花球上，接着就演变成一个皇室传统，戴安娜王妃的花球都用了这种花，剑桥公爵夫人和最近的梅根的婚礼上都是。

So it all started right here at Osborne?

所有这一切都始于奥斯本？

It absolutely did!

绝对是的。

How lovely! How does it feel?

多么美啊！感觉如何？

It just feels amazing. Its so elegant and the makeup is very subtle and its actually very close to how I like to wear my own makeup but obviously with this beautiful gown and the flowers of my hair. I wish I could have fresh flowers every day!

这感觉很棒，这个打扮很优雅，化妆很朴素，很像我平时的化妆，但很明显这漂亮得多，裙子和头发上的花朵都很美，我希望我每天都有鲜花打扮自己。

I know! Im so jealous of this whole look. So I think its a lovely day outside, why dont we go outside and enjoy the gardens?

我明白啊！我很羡慕整个打扮，今天外面天气那么好那么不妨到外面的花园好好享受一番吧。

Hollie looks so regal as our Queen Victoria and its impossible to imagine a prettier spot to have brought this look to life.

Hollie 看起来就像维多利亚女王般庄严，很难再找到另一个比奥斯本更适合的地方实践这个打扮。

You can learn more about Queen Victoria by visiting Osborne for yourself.

你可以亲身来奥斯本参观，认识到更多关于维多利亚女王的事迹。

Click on the screen now to start planning your trip.

现在点击屏幕开始计划您的旅行吧～

Could you pull off this look or is there another historical period thats more fitting to your style? Let us know in the comments below.

你可以自行重演这个打扮吗？还是有其他历史妆容你认为更适合自己呢？请到留言区发表意见。

Until next time, Im Amber Butchart, and thanks for joining me here at Osborne.

我是 Amber Butchart，我们下集见，感谢你和我一起来到奥斯本。